Grown under shade in the gardens of Wazuka Valley, south of Uji, Jobetsugi comes from a region that has made matcha for centuries. The leaves are picked in the first spring harvest, when the savory umami in the cup is at its peak, then air-dried into the raw leaf called tencha. Stone mills grind that Tencha to powder slowly, stone turning against stone, and a single small tin takes close to two hours. What remains is a fine, brilliant-green powder, meant to be whisked into a bowl, not steeped in a pot.